Sofia, Bulgaria
A surprisingly lively city
First, WOW, I did not expect this from Sofia.
When I was researching things to see in Sofia, nothing really stood out as unique and different than other cities I had visited. There are churches, cathedrals, war memorials and pre-war architecture.
However, after spending a couple weeks around the city centre, Sofia has become my favourite city in Europe. Yes, more than Paris, London, Rome, and my previous favourite, Stockholm. Maybe it was the blue skies and perfect weather for my entire visit. Maybe it was the food.
But more than anything, what made Sofia stand out was the endless supply of parks, gathering squares, fountains and tree-lined streets with trendy cafes and outdoor seating. No matter which street I wandered down, it was guaranteed to have towering trees, with changing leaves and numerous cafes, bakeries or restaurants filled with patrons enjoying a meal outdoors.
I can’t even begin to tell you about the number of green spaces - in the city centre! And they were all filled with people enjoying a walk, kids scootering past, others sitting on benches or playing bocce with friends. There were street festivals, pop-up markets, food fairs and outdoor musicians every day and almost around every corner. The main pedestrian road, Vitosha Street, was packed each day with shoppers and people enjoying an ice cream or freshly pressed juice. Some restaurants were even open 24 hours with outdoor seating and always reasonable prices.
Tours
Sofia has some of the best tours I have encountered in Europe. And, to make things even better, many of them are FREE! Here’s a quick rundown of the ones I enjoyed while visiting.
Free Sofia Walking Tour
This tour meets outside the Palace of Justice every day at multiple times, depending on the season. A guide, usually a local, will take you around the main parts of the city centre and explain some key elements that might normally get overlooked if you just go for a stroll by yourself. A few highlights include a square where places of worship from each of the major religions (Islam, Christianity and Judaism) can all be seen co-existing together, the former central bathhouse, taps where locals come to fill up on hot mineral spring water and the oldest structure from the 4th century still standing in Sofia hidden in the courtyard of a current government building. As will all free tours, the guides appreciate a tip or donation at the end of the tour if you were happy with your experience. This tour lasted 2 hours and covered lots of ground, so be prepared to walk.
Free Food Tour
Pardon? Free food?
Yes, it’s true. don’t expect full servings at each stop, but the free food tour runs every day of the week at 2:00 pm and makes six stops to enjoy a sample of Bulgarian (Balkan) cuisine. Ranging from soup, to wine, to banitsa (cheese-filled bread), these stops were sure to hit all the food groups. Each place, whether it’s a full eat-in restaurant or small bakery in the tunnel of the metro station, offers these samples to tour participants in hopes that they might come back later in the day to make a purchase, but also just to share a little bit of Bulgarian cuisine with visitors.
Free Sofia Jewish Tour
Sofia has a long history with Jews living peacefully in a mainly Christian empire for many years, until, of course, World War II came along. This tour covers the history through hundreds of years of Ottoman rule, when large numbers of Jews fled the Spanish inquisition and settled in Sofia because of its tolerant society and the popularity of its markets.
This tour was led by a local Bulgarian Jewish man, who was only alive thanks to many influential Bulgarian officials who helped save his Jewish grandparents from being sent to a concentration camp during the Second World War. He tells the story of a bombing at the train station on the day they were meant to be deported which prevented the trains from leaving, a local uprising created by government officials which spread to its citizens, and finally the actions of a bishop of the Christian Orthodox Church that blocked the departure of the trains and refused to allow the deportation to occur for the third time.
Free Sofia Graffiti Tour
Sofia is covered in graffiti. In most cases it’s unwanted and somewhat unsightly. But in others, the graffiti is commissioned as street art and serves to tell a story or beautify a plain building facade. This tour covers the most well-known street artists, some of whom are internationally-recognized, and explains some culture behind the tags and art seen in alleyways, on fences or covering electrical boxes.
The Red Flat
The Red Flat is a project affiliated with the Free Sofia tours, although this comes with a small cost.
This project consists of a regular apartment, on a typical street that has been decorated as it would have looked in Communist Bulgaria in the 1980’s. There is an audio tour that takes you through various parts of the apartment and encourages visitors to interact with the objects on display. Unlike most museums, you are encouraged to “make yourself at home” and use the record player, sit on the couches, eat the buttered bread on the table, open the cabinets and try on the clothes in the wardrobe. This was the most unique “museum” I have experienced. The audio guide extensively explained the many aspects of life for a typical Bulgarian family, including radio listening, food, TV, magazines, partying and school routines. This tour was certainly worth the price of admission.
Exploring Sofia
Sofia is surrounded by mountains that are within easy reach from the city.
Vitosha Mountain is the most prominent and easiest to access from the city. Several local bus routes take you to various points on the mountain. Be prepared to be packed into the bus on a nice day as most of Sofia seems to be escaping to the mountain for outdoor activities. A funicular exists that takes you on a cable car ride up the mountain which is a popular option for tourists. Just be sure to check that it’s running on the day or in the season that you plan to visit. Once on the mountain there are numerous highlights, hiking trails, huts and villages to explore. A few of the most popular stops include the Boyana Waterfall, the Golden Bridges and the Dragalevski Monastery. On my visit I found an almost deserted trail that eventually led me to the village of Kladnitsa and a small restaurant that served a two-course hearty lunch for about $7. This gave me the energy to complete the return trip back to the bus stop for a full day adventure in the mountains.
Also nearby Sofia is Lake Pancharevo which is within another relatively easy bus commute distance. The lake is surrounded by hills on all sides, providing a picturesque setting for a hike or an afternoon of fishing - which is popular among the locals. There is also a pubic swimming pool and separate mineral bathhouse if you want to relax in the naturally heated waters year round.
The south end of the city is filled with huge parks perfect for walking, biking or just about any other outdoor activity you can imagine.
When to visit
My time in Sofia took place in mid to late October. Now, granted the weather was probably warmer than usual with most days around 25 or 26 degrees Celsius, but this time of the year seemed perfect, with the numerous large trees all changing colour and the busy summer season long finished. There were still plenty of outdoor events taking place that provided days of entertainment and things to do. Even though summer will provide the best chance of nice weather, I would opt for late September and October to take advantage of the slightly cooler temperatures and smaller crowds.
Although, it doesn’t matter when you visit, Sofia will amaze you with its beauty and lively vibe.
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